When designing his 1945 spring collection, Mainbocher was a noted French designer who worked in New York after the fall of Paris in WWII. He declared that he had attempted more than ever to make clothes “that would embody the right amount of novelty, were stimulating for today, yet with enough classical integrity to be worn harmoniously with the dresses of yesterday, and would continue confidently into tomorrow’s wardrobe.”
“I have not tried to set sudden styles, abrupt trends, or breathless paces. There aren’t any Trrr-Boom-Boom dresses. If anyone is looking for hand-springs or cartwheels, they will be disappointed.”
“There are no ideas that shout. I don’t want any noisy, glib dresses; I like dresses that speak softly-conversationally-toned clothes. I would rather look twice to hear what they are saying than have them scream at me.”
“Fashion, I think, to be healthy needs a prescription of large doses of neat simplicity. I haven’t tried to slay any existing mode. I don’t think anything should be out of date except orientation, vulgarity, and bad taste. There is too little fabric in the world and too many unclothed bodies for me to go in for extravagance.”
Magnetic Simplicity
“I believe in simplicity without poverty or boredom. It can be magnetic, whether it is simple or adorned. It becomes more satisfying, too, the better one becomes acquainted with it.”
“A few coats-many suits, that’s what I think spring does to fashion. Real wool suits are suitable for early spring and just as right again for the early autumn. Suits for morning, noon, and night. Jackets, shorts, and medium never long. Even the separate coats are jacket length.”
“Even in summer, I use lots of high, young necklines. I don’t like too much daytime nudity in town, in public places, and excessive or imagined comfort is hardly a valid excuse.”
“Many details are seasonal. Embroideries are lighter in feeling unless they replace jewellery when they have weight and importance. Flowers galore.”
“There are glimpses, separate scarfs, boleros, pettiskirts, and pinafore skirts as well as glamour belts. The bring variety, length, or added importance to that big moment that comes in the life of every little dress.”
Varied Fabrics
“The fabrics are varied laces, light, and heavy; crepes, silk rayon and cotton; surahs, taffetas, mousseline organza, organdy, marquisette, featherweight wools, jerseys, and woollens.”
“Less black-more navy and more colour. There is a whole series of golden muffin shades. I especially like as well as summer pinks that go from dusty to glowing. But always an unusually dark navy and several new blues with a difference. Luminous reds and luscious yellows, and several soft greys-lots and lots of white some of it very sheer.”
“Indeed, there is more white in my collection than ever before, for dresses, blouses, flowers, and accents; in fact, gold, white, and black has turned out to be my favourite combination.”
More on French Fashion
Jacques von Polier: A French Designer Influencing Russian Fashion
Jacques von Polier, a French designer in Russia, revitalizes Russian fashion with Soviet retro-cool style through collaborations and a commitment to cultural preservation.
Keep readingd Perfume Bottle a Madeleine Vionnet Creation
Madeleine Vionnet’s “D Perfume Bottle,” crafted circa 1930, embodies Art Deco luxury and the designer’s elegance, reflecting her pioneering fashion influence.
Keep readingPaul Poiret (1879 – 1944) – King of Fashion
In the early decades of the 20th century, Paul Poiret was a crucial figure in the French fashion industry, notably by adding a deep oriental flavour and rich colours to contemporary clothing.
Keep readingJean-Charles de Castelbajac (b. 1949) French Fashion Designer
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (b. 1949) was a French fashion designer born in Casablanca. He studied law at Faculté de Droit, Limoges and founded the Ko ready-to-wear fashion firm in 1968. He was recognised for his avant-garde designs for women’s clothing featuring unconventional materials.
Keep readingPaul Iribe (1883 – 1935) French Designer and Illustrator
Paul Iribe (1883–1935), a French designer and illustrator, played a significant role in the Art Deco movement through fashion, advertising design, and theatrical work.
Keep readingJean-Paul Gaultier (b.1952) French Fashion Designer
Jean-Paul Gaultier, a French designer, is known for his avant-garde creations, embracing diversity and defying fashion norms with innovative designs.
Keep readingPierre Balmain (1914 – 1982) French Fashion Designer
Pierre Balmain, a French fashion designer, combined architecture and couture to create sophisticated and elegant designs, influencing postwar fashion with his unique silhouette.
Keep readingJean Patou (1880 – 1936) 🎩 Fashion Designer
Jean Patou (1880-1936) was a pioneering French fashion designer known for creating the Garconne Look in 1925 and dressing iconic figures like Suzanne Lenglen.
Keep readingAmerican Fashion (Hardcover) – Council of Fashion Designers America
“American Fashion” by Charlie Scheips is a comprehensive visual journey through 80 years of fashion, showcasing 100+ designers and defining American fashion culture.
Keep reading