Gorham is one of the United States oldest silver producers. In 1813, Jabez Gorham founded a jewellery-making business with four other men after a seven-year apprenticeship with Nehemiah Dodge of Providence, Rhode Island. The company was famed for their ‘Gorham chain,’ which was claimed to be of extraordinary quality. Gorham worked on his own until 1831 when he hired Henry L. Webster, a silversmith who specialised in coin-silver spoons.
His jewellery designs of a kneeling deer, a dolphin in the rushes, and butterflies on a flower, which he created in 1937, were produced for many years. In 1940, he created the ‘Kingmark’ to commemorate King Christian’s seventieth birthday. It was mass-produced and worn by Danes to demonstrate their allegiance to Denmark and opposition to the German occupation.
Erna Zarges-Dürr (1907-2002) was a German silversmith. She was professionally active Pforzheim, Leipzig, Berlin. and Stuttgart. Between 1924-27, she trained at Bruckmann und Söhne, Heilbronn, as the first women in the silversmiths’ department. From 1927, she studied at the Kunstgewerbeschule, Pforzheim, under Theodor Wende and others.
Danish silversmith of Art Deco and Cubist works
Erik Magnussen was a silversmith and designer from Denmark. He lived in the United States from 1925 to 1939, first as artistic director of the Gorham Manufacturing Company in New York City and subsequently with his workshop in Chicago and Los Angeles.
Tias Eckhoff (1926 – 2016) was a well-known industrial designer in Norway. His production was constrained, but many of his products have endured as timeless design classics. In addition to the design of RBM Ana, RBM Bella, and Low-back Bella, he was also responsible for the famous Maya cutlery and Glohane tableware, to name a few of the solid works that are well-established in Norwegian design history.
Bertel Gardberg was a Finnish jeweller and metal worker. Between 1938-1941 he studied at Taideteollin Korkeaukoulu, Helsinki. He began his working life in Copenhagen. Gardberg moved to Helsinki where he maintained a studio between 1949-1966. He was responsible for stainless steel and silver designs produced by the Georg Jensen Solvsmedie; Galeries Lafayette department store, Paris and Kilkenny Design workshops, Dublin. Although he was known for his metal wares, he also worked in wood and stone.
Henri Navarre (1885 – 1970) was a French sculptor, architect, silversmith, and glassmaker. He was born in Paris. He served apprenticeships in architecture, goldsmithing, and silver-smithing. He studied wood carving at the École Bernard Palissy and stained glass and mosaics, Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, both in Paris.