The Unexpected Collaboration: “Cartier Design viewed by Ettore Sottsass” at the Vitra Design Museum

In a surprising collaboration, the iconic French jewellery house Cartier teamed up with the visionary Italian designer Ettore Sottsass for the “Cartier Design Viewed by Ettore Sottsass” exhibition at the Berlin Vitra Design Museum. From June 14 to September 15, 2002, this exhibition presented an evocative curation by Sottsass, bringing forth a unique blend of French luxury and Italian design aesthetics.

An Exhibition with a Twist: Redefining Luxury Objects

The “meaning” of the exhibition lay in its novel approach to display, featuring 200 carefully selected Cartier creations, each treated as a piece of design rather than solely as a luxury item. The selection spanned an array of Cartier’s creations: crowns, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, smoking accessories, writing instruments, and watches. Notable among these were iconic pieces like the Mystérieuse Eléphant clock, commissioned by the Maharajah of Nawanagar, the Tutti Frutti necklace once owned by Daisy Fellowes and the legendary Panther bracelet of the Duchess of Windsor.

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For Sottsass, the emphasis was on aesthetic value over material worth. He famously stated, “Of an object in general, I tend to ignore everything except the design.” By focusing on colour and form, Sottsass intentionally overlooked the social or financial aspects, favouring an approach highlighting Cartier’s mastery of creating visually compelling artifacts.

A Journey Through Time and Craftsmanship

Visitors to the exhibition were treated to more than just the jewels themselves. The show also included an extensive video documenting Cartier’s meticulous craftsmanship alongside enlarged preparatory sketches that illustrated the conceptual stages behind each piece. A portrait gallery of iconic women adorned with Cartier jewellery offered a glimpse into these treasures’ historical relevance and lasting allure.

The collection, consisting of 1,200 pieces known as the “Collection Art of Cartier,” had previously been showcased at esteemed institutions like the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and the British Museum in London. However, this Berlin presentation at Vitra added a fresh interpretative layer through Sottsass’s distinct perspective, blending Cartier’s legacy with his architectural and design sensibility.

Exhibition Details

• Dates: June 14, 2002 – September 15, 2002
• Location: Vitra Design Museum, Berlin
• Address: Kopenhagener Strasse 58, Berlin
• Contact: +49 30 47377712 | [email protected]
• Website: www.design-museum.de