Ethel Mairet: Pioneer of Hand-Weaving in England

Ethel Mairet (b. Ethel Partridge, 1872–1952), British weaver.

Biography

Between 1903 and 1906, she lived in Ceylon and, from 1906–10, in Chipping Campden, where she had close contact with C.R. Ashbee and his Guild of Handicraft. In 1911–12, she began weaving in Taunton.

In 1918, Ethel Mairet relocated to Ditchling, Sussex, where she established her renowned workshop, Gospels. This picturesque village was also home to Eric Gill, fostering a vibrant artistic and creative community.

Gospels as a Creative Hub

Gospels became a meeting place for notable weavers, including Marianne Straub, Margery Kendon, Valentine Kilbride, and Elizabeth Peacock, who joined in 1917. Mairet’s workshop not only focused on production but also served as a center for innovation and education in weaving.

Leadership in the Hand-Weaving Revival

Mairet was a pivotal figure in the revival of hand-weaving in England. Her work emphasized a connection between traditional hand-weaving and industrial power looms, demonstrating her commitment to bridging art and industry. Renowned for her mastery of vegetable dyes and her exceptional sense of color, Mairet elevated the craft to new artistic heights. The textiles produced at Gospels were celebrated for their superior drape, hang, and harmonious colors.

Ethel Mairet’s Literary Contributions

Mairet was also a prolific author, writing extensively on the subjects of dyes, weaving, and crafts. Her notable works include:

• The Dipavamsa and Mahavamsa and Their Historical Development in Ceylon (1908, by E.M. Coomaraswamy, with afterwords by Mairet)

• The Future of Dyeing (1915)

• A Book on Vegetable Dyes (1916)

• An Essay on Crafts and Obedience (1918, co-written with Philip A. Mairet)

• Vegetable Dyes (1931)

• Hand-Weaving Today: Traditions and Changes (1939)

• Hand Weaving and Education (1942)

• Handweaving Notes for Teachers (1949).

Mairet’s influence extended beyond her textiles, as her writings provided foundational knowledge and inspiration for future generations of weavers and craftspeople.

Exhibitions

In 1938, elected Royal Designer for Industry. Her weavings were included in the 1979-80 “Thirties’ exhibition at the Hayward Gallery, London.

Sources

Byars, M., & Riley, T. (2004). The design encyclopedia. Laurence King Publishing. https://amzn.to/3ElmSlL

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