Black and white portrait of Zika and Lida Ascher, surrounded by textile samples and design sketches, from the National Portrait Gallery.
A rare portrait of Zika and Lida Ascher, pioneers of 20th-century textile design, working on innovative fabric patterns.

From Prague to London: A New Beginning

Zika Ascher (1910–1992) and Lida Ascher (née Tydlitátová, 1914–1983) revolutionised textile design during the mid-20th century. Born into a family of textile manufacturers in Prague, Zika was a successful businessman and a champion skier, earning the nickname “The Mad Silkman.” In 1939, he married Lida, and the couple fled Czechoslovakia just before the Nazi invasion. Settling in London, they founded Ascher (London) Ltd. in 1942 amidst the turmoil of World War II. Their company would go on to transform the intersection of art and fashion.

Serigraphy-printed Ascher scarf featuring Henry Moore’s "Three Standing Figures," c. 1944, in blue, yellow, and red geometric patterns.
A silk scarf designed by Henry Moore for Ascher Ltd. (c. 1944), part of the “Ascher Squares” series, showcasing post-war textile innovation.

Revolutionizing Post-War Fashion

At a time when post-war British fashion was subdued and uninspired, the Aschers sought to inject vibrancy and artistic innovation into textiles. Zika had the visionary idea of commissioning renowned artists to create designs for textiles. This initiative led to the famous “Ascher Squares”, a collection of silk scarves featuring artworks by luminaries such as Henry Moore, Henri Matisse, André Derain, and Jean Cocteau. These scarves were not just fashion accessories but wearable art, bridging the gap between fine art and textile design.

The Ascher Squares gained immense popularity, attracting attention from art collectors and the fashion elite. This pioneering collaboration between artists and textile designers set a precedent for future intersections of art and fashion.

Blue printed cotton mousse head scarf designed by Zika and Lida Ascher in the 1970s.
A minimalist printed cotton mousse head scarf designed by Zika and Lida Ascher for Ascher Ltd., London, 1970s.

Innovations in Textile Materials

The Aschers were not content with merely reinterpreting traditional fabrics; they sought to innovate with new materials. They adapted to material shortages during the war by experimenting with parachute nylon and rayon, using unconventional resources. Post-war, they introduced mohair and cheesecloth fabrics, which became iconic in the 1960s due to their vibrant colours and distinctive textures. Their mohair fabrics, particularly, were characterized by their rich hues and luxurious feel, making them highly desirable in haute couture.

Screen-printed cotton dress fabric with irregular red and black checkered pattern, designed by Lida Ascher, 1949.
A dress fabric of screen-printed cotton designed by Lida Ascher for Ascher Ltd., Great Britain, 1949.

Collaborations with Fashion Icons

The innovative textiles produced by Ascher (London) Ltd. caught the attention of leading fashion houses. Esteemed designers such as Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Yves Saint Laurent incorporated Ascher fabrics into their collections. The collaboration with Dior was particularly noteworthy—in 1952, Ascher produced cabbage rose prints for Dior, which became a defining element of 1950s fashion.

Ascher fabrics were not just visually striking but versatile and high-quality, making them a staple for couture designers. The ability to combine art, technology, and craftsmanship positioned the Aschers at the forefront of the textile industry.

Lida Ascher: A Visionary Designer

While Zika was the driving force behind the business, Lida Ascher was an equally influential creative force. Her bold, gestural patterns and striking colour combinations characterised her textile designs. She often used brilliant shades like tangerine, cyclamen, and chartreuse, contrasted with navy blue and black. Her wartime designs were minimalist yet rhythmic, featuring simple motifs like dots, dashes, and mock calligraphy printed on silk. Her work’s sense of movement and rhythm made her designs timeless and widely admired.

Legacy and Recognition

Lida Ascher passed away in 1983, followed by Zika in 1992. Their impact on the world of textile design continues to be celebrated in exhibitions and publications. Notably, “The Mad Silkman: Zika & Lida Ascher Textiles and Fashion”, a comprehensive exhibition, shed light on their groundbreaking contributions to fashion and textile design.

Their legacy endures through the continued appreciation of Ascher textiles, which remain highly collectible. The Aschers’ fearless experimentation and dedication to artistic collaboration revolutionized the industry, inspiring generations of designers. Today, their work is a testament to the power of blending art, fashion, and innovation to create something truly extraordinary.

Conclusion

Zika and Lida Ascher’s story is a compelling example of how resilience, creativity, and collaboration can redefine an industry. From escaping war-torn Europe to working with the world’s leading artists and designers, the Aschers proved that textiles could be more than just fabric—they could be a canvas for artistic expression. Their influence remains a beacon of inspiration in textile and fashion design.

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