This article forms part of the Decorative and Applied Arts Encyclopedia, a master reference hub providing a structured overview of design history, materials, movements, and practitioners.
French fabrics from the Art Deco era are uniquely placed in the design history, blending bold geometric patterns with luxurious materials like silk and wool. Among the standout contributions to this movement are the fabrics created by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, whose innovation in textile design brought an elevated aesthetic to fashion that continues to resonate today. One remarkable example of her influence in this era is preserved in the Victoria and Albert Museum, a fabric manufactured by Tricots Chanel in the late 1920s.
Chanel’s Revolutionary Approach to Textiles
In the 1920s, as Chanel’s reputation grew, so did her need for exclusive and high-quality materials that matched her innovative designs. Chanel established her textile factory in Asnières-sur-Seine to meet the demand, a groundbreaking move for a fashion house at the time. By controlling production, she ensured that her fabrics were unique to her brand and meticulously crafted to her standards. This approach allowed her to experiment with innovative designs and gave her complete creative freedom over her collections.
The Art Deco Fabric in Focus
The specific Tricot Chanel dress fabric featured in the V&A collection exemplifies Art Deco aesthetics with its striking use of colour and geometry. The fabric is a lightweight wool and silk blend, showcasing a printed design of overlapping planes in magenta, blue, beige, and white, outlined in bold black lines. This fabric, made in 1929, was designed not just as a standalone material but as an integrated part of Chanel’s vision, often used for coat linings that matched the dresses worn beneath—a trademark of her style.
The fabric’s bold, geometric patterning reflects the influence of the Art Deco movement. The overlapping planes of colour reflect the era’s fascination with modernity, movement, and abstraction, echoing architectural trends and the visual arts. This fabric, both a functional material and a work of art, encapsulates the vibrant energy of the late 1920s, a period marked by innovation and elegance.
The Role of Ilia Zdanevich (Iliazd)
Chanel collaborated with the multidisciplinary artist Ilia Zdanevich, Iliazd, for some of her textile designs. Known for his experimental approach to typography and design, Iliazd brought a unique perspective to Chanel’s textiles, blending modern art influences with fashion. This collaboration further highlights Chanel’s commitment to working with avant-garde artists and expanding the creative possibilities of textile design in fashion.
A Legacy in Art Deco and Textile Design
Chanel’s Art Deco fabrics remain significant for their aesthetic appeal and their role in the evolution of fashion. By bringing art and textiles into closer alignment, Chanel helped redefine the relationship between design and functionality in clothing. These fabrics were not just materials; they were statements, embodying the spirit of Art Deco with a refined, modern edge that would define Chanel’s enduring legacy in fashion.
For those interested in exploring the rich history of French Art Deco textiles, read our detailed article here. Dive deeper into how designers like Chanel and others contributed to the Art Deco movement, leaving behind a legacy of timeless design that continues to inspire today.
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