The Legacy of Miriam Haskell: A Jewelry Innovator

Miriam Haskell was a New York-based American Jeweller. In 1924, Haskell opened up a small gift shop at the McAlpin Hotel, where she sold her jewellery. Her key designer became Frank Hess, a display artist at the nearby Macy’s department store. They worked on antique-quality glass beads and simulated pearl jewellery. By the 1930s, their enterprise had expanded to include separate production facilities. Some products were distributed via Saks Fifth Avenue and other retail outlets. Much of their jewellery had floral motifs, which became more elaborate in the 1940s. Haskell introduced leather, wood and seashells into realistic representations.

New York Socialite

Haskell was a stunning beauty. She lived an active social life and was romantically related to Bernhard Gimble (whose family owned Saks Fifth Avenue) and Nelson Rockefeller and had a stormy relationship with the rent-a-car magnate John D. Hertz before he married Myrna Loy.

As opulent as her private life was her design path. She sourced the finest machine stampings, imitation pearls, pastes and handmade glass beads from brands such as Rouselet and Gripoix, who made Chanel’s jewellery. She travelled around the world to make these discoveries.

Developed new techniques

She designed new techniques and methods for the style she wanted, and nothing was spared to achieve the fresh, exciting pieces bearing her name.

A panoply or seashell, butterflies, seed-pearl apples or a rococo filigree arrangement are motifs she often created based on floral designs or classical styles.

In the 1950s, Haskell’s “Palm Beach,” or resort look, featured white, glossy glass beads combined with mother of pearl and imitation coral.

The glass beads were imported from Czechoslovakia and Venice. During the Second World War, Haskell and Hess’s jewellery was produced primarily from wood and plastic. They continued working together until 1952 when Haskell’s brother took over the firm. Hess retired in 1954, and the company was sold to Morris Kinsler, who in 1983 sold it to Stanford Moss. In 1989, Moss sold Haskell Jewels to Frank Failkoff, president of Rhode Island’s costume jewellers, Victoria International.

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