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Cushion Cover designed by Jessie Newbery
The cushion Cover was designed by Jessie Newbery. V&A

Historical Perspective: The Glasgow School’s Textile Revolution

Jessie R. Newbery (1864–1948) wasn’t just an embroiderer but a pivotal figure in the Glasgow School’s rich tapestry of art and design. Born Jessie Wylie Rowat, her early exposure to the textile industry through her father’s shawl manufacturing business in Paisley laid the groundwork for her future endeavors. A transformative trip to Italy at 18 kindled her lifelong passion for textiles and decorative arts. Jessie’s educational journey began in earnest when she enrolled at the Glasgow School of Art in 1884, a decision that would shape her career and leave an indelible mark on the school’s history.

Pioneering Embroidery as Art

At a time when embroidery was primarily viewed as a domestic craft rather than a form of artistic expression, Jessie Newbery dared to challenge the status quo. Her marriage in 1889 to Francis H. Newbery, the principal of the Glasgow School of Art, wasn’t just a personal union but a professional partnership that would foster an environment of creativity and innovation. Jessie’s tenure as a teacher from 1894 to 1908 was transformative. She was pivotal in elevating textile decoration, particularly embroidery, to an art form, embedding it within the curriculum of the Glasgow School of Art.

The Glasgow Style: An Artistic Revolution

Jessie Newbery’s designs breathed new life into embroidery. Eschewing the conventional styles of the Royal School of Art Needlework, she embraced a bold and innovative approach. Her designs, characterized by angular stems and a strong decorative quality, breathed fresh air. The ‘Sensim Sed’ cushion cover, intricate stitches, vivid colours, and stylized rose emblematic of the Glasgow School are a testament to her ingenuity and artistry. Jessie’s influence extended beyond her creations; she was instrumental in shaping the careers of her students, many of whom hoped to professionalize their craft. Her classes, a blend of traditional techniques and avant-garde design, attracted aspiring artists and teachers, aligning with the Scottish Education Department’s vision of integrating embroidery into the national school curriculum.

Cushion cover designed and embroidered by Jessie Newbery, c. 1900.Copyright Victoria and Albert Museum, London, acc. no. T.69-1953.
Cushion cover designed and embroidered by Jessie Newbery, c. 1900. Copyright Victoria and Albert Museum, London, acc. no. T.69-1953.

Advocating for Equality Through Design

Jessie Newbery’s philosophy transcended the artistic. She was a staunch advocate for gender equality and believed in democratising art and design. Her inclusive approach was not limited to her admission policies but reflected in her teaching and designs. She felt that beauty and practicality should coexist, a principle evident in her approach to women’s clothing and dress design. Her support for women’s suffrage and her active role in the Glasgow Society of Lady Artists underscored her commitment to elevating women’s role in society and the arts.

Legacy and Influence

Jessie Newbery’s legacy is profound. Her innovative embroidery approach and role in shaping the Glasgow Style left an indelible mark on art and design. Her work, recognized internationally during her lifetime, continues to inspire and influence designers and artists today. Jessie’s belief that design should be accessible and relevant to all and her commitment to social and artistic causes resonate even in contemporary times.

More Scottish Designers

Phoebe Anna Traquair (1852 – 1936) British embroiderer and jeweller

Phoebe Anna Traquir (1852 – 1936) was an Irish-born artist who rose to international prominence as an illustrator, painter, and embroiderer in Scotland’s Arts and Crafts movement. Murals, embroidery, enamel jewellery, and book illuminations were among her works. She was the first woman to be elected to the Royal Scottish Academy in 1920.

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