This article forms part of the Decorative and Applied Arts Encyclopedia, a master reference hub providing a structured overview of design history, materials, movements, and practitioners.
Fair Isle knitting is a traditional technique that has captivated the world with its intricate patterns and rich history. Named after Fair Isle, one of the Shetland Islands, this technique is renowned for using multiple colours and geometric motifs. Today, we’ll explore some remarkable Fair Isle knitting examples from the V&A, shedding light on this captivating craft.
The Popularity of Fair Isle
Fair Isle knitting gained prominence when King Edward VIII, then the Prince of Wales, sported Fair Isle jumpers in public in 1921. These jumpers became a fashion sensation, spreading global interest in this distinctive knitting style.
Technique and Traditions
Fair Isle knitting is characterized by its unique technique. Basic two-colour Fair Isle involves alternating two colours per row while working in the round. Knitters catch the inactive colour behind the piece to avoid long strands of unused yarn, ensuring a neat finish.
Traditional Fair-Isle patterns limit consecutive stitches of a single colour, creating intricate designs. An innovation known as woven Fair Isle allows for larger blocks of colour while maintaining a clean appearance.
Examples from the V&A
1. Jumper from 1931
This V-necked sweater, worn by the Prince of Wales, showcases the traditional Fair Isle technique. Hand-knitted without seams, it features a striking pattern in blue, yellow, red, green, brown, and black, with no more than two colours per row. The ribbing adds a classic touch typical of Shetland and Fair Isle knitting.
2. Jumper from 1997
Annie Thomson, the last woman born on Fair Isle, hand-knitted this sweater using the traditional round technique. Its unique feature is the sleeves knitted downwards, allowing for easy replacement when worn. A testament to the island’s knitting heritage, this jumper was made with Shetland-spun and dyed wool.
3. Sweater from 1971
A man’s sleeveless sweater tank top machine-knitted with colourful geometric designs. While not hand-knitted like traditional Fair Isle, it showcases the technique’s influence on fashion and design.
4. Cardigan from 1993
Part of a fashionable ensemble representing the Grunge look, this cardigan features a Fair Isle-style design. Its use in high fashion demonstrates the versatility and enduring appeal of Fair Isle patterns.
5. Pair of Stockings
Hand-knitted stockings in classic Fair Isle style, showcasing intricate patterns and stranded colours. These stockings are a testament to the skill and creativity of Fair Isle knitters.
6. Sampler ca 1969
A sampler panel featuring traditional Fair Isle patterns in undyed Shetland wools. This piece serves as a historical artifact, preserving the essence of Fair Isle knitting.
These Fair Isle knitting examples from the V&A provide a glimpse into the artistry and history of this captivating craft. Whether worn by royalty or incorporated into modern fashion, Fair Isle knitting inspires and enchants designers and knitters worldwide.
Explore these exquisite pieces at the V&A and immerse yourself in the timeless beauty of Fair Isle knitting.
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