Garrard: A Historical Overview of British Luxury and Craftsmanship

Historical Perspective

Founded in 1735 by George Wickes, Garrard has established itself as one of the preeminent names in British goldsmithing and jewellery. Wickes, born into a family of craftsmen, was apprenticed to Samuel Wastell at 14. He gained his freedom and registered his maker’s mark in 1722. By 1735, he had established his own business in London’s West End, quickly gaining a reputation for skilled craftsmanship. His early patrons included aristocrats and royalty, notably Frederick, Prince of Wales.

Evolution of Garrard

In 1782, Robert Garrard joined the firm, initially working with accounts and stockkeeping. He became a partner in 1792 and took sole control in 1802, renaming the company Robert Garrard. He registered his maker’s mark and maintained high standards of design and execution, which his sons continued after he died in 1818.

By 1843, Garrard was awarded the Royal Warrant by Queen Victoria, becoming the Principal Royal Goldsmiths and Jewellers. This prestigious position, known as the Crown Jewellers, solidified their reputation and allowed them to serve six successive monarchs. Their displays at the 1851 Great Exhibition in Hyde Park showcased almost one hundred exquisite pieces, including intricate silver and jewellery designs that garnered them a £200 prize from the Goldsmith’s Company.

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Royal Commissions and Innovations

Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, Garrard was responsible for many significant royal commissions. They re-cut the Koh-i-Noor diamond and created Queen Victoria’s small diamond crown, the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara, and various crowns and tiaras for other royal family members. Perhaps most famously, they crafted Princess Diana’s engagement ring, a Ceylon sapphire and diamond cluster ring now worn by Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge.

During World War I, Garrard produced precision range finders for the British Artillery, leading to the formation of the Garrard Engineering and Manufacturing Company. This company continued until 1992, and Garrard became known for its high-quality record turntables used by the BBC and commercial radio stations across Europe.

Modern Era and Rebranding

1952 Garrard amalgamated with The Goldsmiths and Silversmiths Company, relocating to Regent Street. 1990, The Asprey Group acquired them, leading to a series of ownership changes and a merger with Asprey in 1998. Despite losing the coveted Crown Jeweller position in 2007, Garrard continued to innovate and adapt. Jade Jagger and later Stephen Webster served as Creative Directors, bringing fresh perspectives to the brand.

Garrard Today

Today, Garrard remains a symbol of British luxury and craftsmanship. Their Regent Street shop, known for its antique silver and jewellery, clocks, and watches, continues to attract discerning customers. The firm’s commitment to quality and tradition ensures its place in the hierarchy of the world’s greatest jewellers.

Sources

British Museum. (n.d.). R & S Garrard & Co. British Museum. Retrieved May 27, 2024, from https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/term/BIOG70138

Byars, M., & Riley, T. (2004). The design encyclopedia. Laurence King Publishing. https://amzn.to/3ElmSlL

Hancocks London. (n.d.). Garrard. Retrieved May 27, 2024, from https://www.hancocks-london.com/maker/garrard/

Hughes, G. (1968). Modern jewelry: an international survey, 1890-1967.. United Kingdom: Studio Vista.

Traina, J. (1994). Extraordinary Jewels. United States: Doubleday.

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