Stick Pins: A Jewel in the Crown of Men’s Fashion

Stick pins, or tie pins, serve as an intriguing case study within the decorative arts, reflecting broader historical, cultural, and fashion trends. These diminutive jewellery items offer a window into their times’ changing tastes, societal norms, and technological advancements. This post delves into stick pins’ history, design, and enduring appeal, exploring how these objects have evolved from functional accessories to sought-after collectibles.

Historical Evolution

The Birth of Neckwear and Early Stick Pins

The transformation of men’s neckwear in the early eighteenth century marked the beginning of the stick pin’s story. As the cravat replaced the large falling collar, the arrangement of the neckcloth became a critical aspect of a gentleman’s attire, especially among Dandies and followers of Beau Brummell. The era saw the emergence of stick pins as both a functional necessity and a subtle form of ornamentation. Initially, these pins were short and featured a zigzag pattern to secure them in place, adorned with pastes or foil-backed stones.

Victorian Extravagance and Sentimentality

The Victorian era ushered in a golden age for stick pins, with an explosion of designs fueled by the period’s fascination with mourning jewellery, sentimentality, and novelty. The late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries saw stick pins adorned with miniature scenes of mourning, crafted in marquise shapes and set in gold. This period also witnessed the incorporation of diverse motifs, from serpents and cameos to political emblems and symbols of speed and modernity in the 1920s.

Design and Craftsmanship

Motifs and Materials

Stick pins from the mid-nineteenth century showcased the era’s jewellery styles, with motifs such as serpents, carved coral, and pavé-set turquoises. The fashion for Scottish pebble jewellery, influenced by Queen Victoria’s purchase of Balmoral, became particularly popular. The late nineteenth century’s pursuit of novelty found perfect expression in stick pins, which featured many motifs, including animals associated with hunting and sporting jewels.

Innovation and Symbolism

The turn of the century brought about innovations in design and symbolism, with stick pins reflecting the sophisticated age of the 1920s through geometric patterns and combinations of precious stones. This period also exhibited a fascination with themes of speed and scientific advancements, as demonstrated by pins featuring emerald propellers set in platinum.

Societal Impact and Collectibility

The Scarf Pin Society

The Scarf Pin Society, established in 1951, attempted to revive the fashion of wearing stick pins. This exclusive group of gentlemen celebrated the wearing of scarf pins as a means to bring colour and elegance into the modern world, underscoring the social significance and personal expression inherent in the wearing of stick pins.

Collectors’ Delight

Today, the allure of stick pins lies in their variety and the craftsmanship they showcase. Collectors and enthusiasts are drawn to each piece’s endless designs and historical narratives. As an appreciation for Victorian jewellery and the decorative arts continues to grow, stick pins remain a fascinating subject for those interested in the confluence of fashion, history, and art.

Conclusion

Stick pins exemplify how a small accessory can reflect significant cultural and historical shifts. Their evolution from functional tie fasteners to coveted collectibles speaks to the human desire for beauty, novelty, and personal expression. As we rediscover these gems of the decorative arts, we are reminded of the intricate ways in which design intertwines with our daily lives and history.

Sources

Becker, V. (1987). Antique and Twentieth Century Jewellery: A Guide for Collectors. Kiribati: N.A.G..

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