Jewellery Design of the Great Houses: A Retrospective (1940 – 1960)

In the transformative years following World War II, the world of fashion and jewellery underwent a significant revival, marked by a return to femininity, extravagance, and, notably, luxury in jewellery design and this period, particularly from 1940 to 1960, witnessed a renaissance in the luxury jewellery, spearheaded by the Great Houses of jewellery design. Their creations captured the era’s zeitgeist and set the standards for elegance and luxury that continue to resonate today.

Historical Perspective: The Post-War Opulence

The Return to Traditional Elegance

In the immediate post-war years, society sought to distance itself from the austerity imposed by the war. There was a deliberate pivot towards glamour and romance in fashion, paralleling a resurgence of luxury in jewellery. The heavy taxes levied on newly-made jewellery in some countries inadvertently encouraged a return to traditional styles. Fine-cut stones, especially diamonds, set discreetly, epitomized the ideal of luxury during this era. ‘Le Diamant Roi,’ a feature in the June 1951 Paris Vogue, encapsulated this trend, showcasing a variety of jewels with motifs that have since become iconic – formalized flowers, leaves, bouquets, ribbons, and free falls of stones.

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Icons of Luxury: Boucheron, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels

Prominent among the jewellers who dominated this era were Boucheron, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels, each French in origin. These houses thrived in their homeland and internationalized, establishing sales points in major Western cities like Paris, London, and New York and in affluent locales from Palm Springs to Monte Carlo. Cartier, in particular, distinguished itself as an adventurous trailblazer, finding success with a range of luxury accessories and launching the iconic ‘Santos’ watch, reflecting the technological aesthetic of the seventies.

National Pride and International Prestige

Tiffany & Co.: An Emblem of American Elegance

In the United States, Tiffany & Co. redefined luxury post-war. After initially retreating into traditionalism, the arrival of Jean Schlumberger in 1956 as chief designer marked a resurgence for the firm. Schlumberger’s innovative designs and the strategic use of display windows in central Manhattan reinvigorated Tiffany’s image. The firm also benefited from the contemporary designs of Elsa Peretti, who introduced a chic, understated elegance to jewellery at more accessible price points.

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International Luminaries: Bulgari, Garrard, and Others

While firms like Bulgari and Garrard, known for their traditional precious objects, maintained prestige, they were not considered design innovators. However, Harry Winston gained international acclaim, particularly for his diamond expertise, demonstrating that diamonds and modern design could coalesce harmoniously.

The Fusion of Diamonds and Design: The Role of De Beers

The symbiotic relationship between diamonds and innovative design was further encouraged by De Beers through their annual Diamonds-International Awards. Starting in 1954, these awards set high standards for design and inventiveness, offering commendable designers significant publicity and recognition.

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